Episode 11 posted, finally

Sorry for the delay folks. The power supply went bad on my computer, and I had to set up my laptop to download and edit the videos, which took some time I'd ordinarily spend on editing. I also ran into a problem where the original video had sound, but the edited video was mute, which took a while to sort out.

That's all behind us now and Episode 11, as well as a brief update filmed a few days later, is posted here:



And here:



Also, as I noted in my last post, the city gave me a notice of non-compliance with their derelict vehicle ordinance. I've had to put the hood back on, clean up the work area of all parts taken off (good thing I have a shed) get all the tools out of there, etc. I took a video of some of the cleanup, but it's about forty minutes long, and I haven't figured out how to edit it together yet. Hopefully now that I have a good set of tools, I can make some better progress in the upcoming weeks.

Episode 10 posted

Well with spring cleaning, I haven't been able to get much work done, but I did procure some batteries (for free!) and am in the process of charging those up. You can see more about it in the video below:



Now for the discussion of batteries and the math I promised.

So here are the pros and cons of the batteries I have. Let's start with the pros:

1. These are deep cycle batteries. That means they can be safely discharged down to a low level (around 80%, as opposed to 50% for standard lead-acid batteries)
2. These are UPS batteries. While their total amp-hour rating is not as much as I'd like, they won't lose as much to the Puekert effect. With lead-acid batteries, they're rated at a discharge rate of 20 hours. So if you have a 75 Ah battery, it can give 3.75 Amps over a 20 hour period. Conversely, you would think that it could give 75 Amps over an hour period. However, as the rate of discharge increases, the Puekert effect causes it to be less efficient, meaning you run the battery down before the full charge is delivered. Typically you lose about 20% of total charge because of this, but because these batteries are designed to discharge over the course of 15 -45 minutes, I expect the performance will work out a little better than the numbers say they should.
3. The UPS connections look pretty convenient. If I can find some of the receptacles for it, I can avoid the time of having to connect lugs to all the cables, and it will give me quick-disconnect ability, which could come in handy.
4. If I can get them charged up to nominal levels, it should give me enough energy to get to work and back, plus a little extra. I've got the math below for that.

Now, time for the cons.

1. The batteries are a little small, only 75 Amp hours (Ah). The more Ah, the more range It won't get me quite far enough to do all the things I do in a day now, but with two cars, my wife can do some of the things, like picking up the kids, that can save me the needed mileage. It will mean changing our routine a bit, at least until I get new batteries.
2. They're not very efficient in terms of weight. A typical deep cycle, 100+ Ah battery would weight around 65 lbs. These weight almost 60 lbs (58.6) and are only about 3/4 that size.
3. They're used, and have been badly maintained. At least one has been allowed to self-discharge down to no noticeable voltage. This means that the life span of these batteries will be fairly short. As they're free, that's not much of a problem, but it does mean that I'll have to replace them fairly soon. Batteries like this have a life span that's measured in cycles, but they will fade over time as well. These have never had a regular discharge cycle, but they're about five years old. I suspect I'll get less than a year of decent performance from them.

So before we jump into the nerdy math part, let's just do a quick sum up. Next week: vacation. After that, semi-weekly schedule, as time allows, and hopefully making breakneck progress after a winter of non-action. We've got the motor and batteries, the first charger, the car, all we have to do is drop the engine, get the adapter fitted, get the dc converter, controller, and wiring. Easy! Well it sounds nice anyway.

Here's that math bits I keep promising.

A lot of people use 300 watt-hours/mile as a general guideline for a small-ish car. I've actually seen people get as low as 260 wh/mi on things like a Geo Metro, and the Geo Storm is just about as light and more aerodynamic. But for the sake of argument, let's say 300 for now.

I travel 7.9 miles, one way, to work. Between this and picking up the kids, that's 7.9 x 4 = 31.6 mi. To feel good about the range, I'd like 35 miles. To get that, I need 300 wh/mi x 35mi = 10,500 wh, or 10.5kwh. Now wh = voltage x Ah. Since we know the voltage will be 96v (we can go up later to 120 if need be) we get 109.375 Ah needed. This is before we take into account that we only want to discharge to 80%, and we may only get 80% of the total because of the Puekert effect.

This means we really need 15.12kwh (10.5 x 1.2 x 1.2, i.e. increase by 20% to account for Puekert and 20% so we don't fully discharge). This means we need 157.5 Ah batteries at 96v. If we up it to 120 (add another two batteries), we still need 120.6 Ah. That's the top the motor and most controllers will handle before you get into AC territory, which will be too expensive and too difficult for this particular project.

However, if I adjust my driving habits and let my wife pick up my kids from school, I can cut out 15.8 miles of my daily drive. That means I really need around 20 miles range, or 6000 wh. To adjust up for Puekert and total discharge, you end up with 8640 wh. At 96v, this is 90 Ah. If we go up to 120, that means I only need 72 Ah.

This means that with these batteries, if I pick up another two, I can get the range I need without having to buy any batteries. And this is assuming 300 wh/mi, which I think will be high for this vehicle, as light as it is. I think it will be more like the 260 I've seen Metro owners quote, which lowers our needs to 260x20= 5200 wh . 5200wh x 1.2 x 1.2= 7488 wh needed total. Divide that by 96v and you get 78 Ah, very close to what I have now. I'd actually get 17.7 miles using these numbers (75Ah x 96v x .8 x .8 /260), which is enough to get me to work and back, plus 1.8 miles extra, and still have 20% available in an emergency. That last 20% would damage the batteries' life, but given their current state, and that they were free, I wouldn't worry about it too much if I had to use it now and then. That could mean another 3.4 miles if I really needed it.

So all in all, the math says that if I can get these batteries to charge, I can get where I'm going, but I might not have a lot extra, depending on how many watt-hours per mile I actually end up getting. I'll definitely be replacing the batters sooner than later, and when I do I'll go with a larger battery, but for now, these should be enough to get me started.

Conversion officially on hold for Winter

The next video episode, such as it is, is posted below.  It's been too cold to do much of anything, as you can see.  We had two more snows since I shot this video.  It's just today starting to get up to normal temperatures, but the wind is gusting at ~30 mph, making it feel much cooler.  Next week, the wind is supposed to die down, but the temperatures will be falling too supposedly.  I'm hoping to get started again sometime in March, if the temperature and the rain (or more to the point, a lack of it) cooperate.

Episode 8 finally posted!

Sorry for the long delay.  Since the last episode my wife went on a week long trip, we were in various stages of illness for two weeks, and it rained for about three weeks.  The weather is finally starting to dry up, and everybody is on the mend and at home, so here we go, pressing ahead!

So here's the timetable I see left for the project.

Week 1: Take out the alternator, move the air conditioner compressor, any other loose attachments

Week 2: get the extras we'll need to take out the engine (hoist, breaker bar, torque wrench, etc).

Week 3: take out the engine

Week 4: Get the clutch plate out and measured

Week 5: send off the clutch plate for the adapter fabrication and drop off all the salvaged parts

Week 6: install EV parts (motor, controller, pot box)

Week 7: create battery boxes

Week 8: probably still be creating battery boxes and installing them

Week 9: wiring (primarily battery packs, motor, controller, etc)

Week 10: wiring (primarily dash, tachometer, spedometer, etc)

Week 11: Extra component installation (vacuum pump, heater elements)

Week 12: Paperwork (insurance, title)

Week 13: Paperwork (registration, inspection)

So that puts us at completing some where around mid January, which isn't too bad.  I've labeled this as weeks because I've put aside all aspersions that I'm going to work on this each weekend day.  But hopefully, some of these can be consolidated, for example the ones where I just need to go get parts or ship things off.  I also expect there will be more delays.  I'd like to be finished before the end of the year, but we'll see how that goes.  I've given up all hope of setting a firm date because my stamina is just not there sometimes, and when it is, the weather isn't, or someone is sick, or the house collapsed.  That one hasn't happened yet but I'm waiting for it.

Making progress

Okay, episode 5 is up!  This week I got the wipers off (don't ask me why, you have to take them off for engine removal apparently) the hood off, the radiatior and radiator resivoir, battery, battery pan and some bit of relay (I think maybe a thermostat) taken out. 

So far I have the alternator, and power steering pump to take out, and the air conditioning condenser to move.  After that, I think it's time for lift out!

On something of a down note, I have to get another passenger side wiper arm, as you'll see in the video.  Hopefully this will be cheap.  I've also got some before and after shots of the interior.

Before:

After:

The dirver's side looks just as improved, but I don't have a good before shot.  I haven't shampood the floors yet, but they're next.

And without further delay, episode five!

Disturbing revalation

I took this video on Wednessday, but am just getting around to uploading it today. I've been very busy remodeling the bathroom.

Suffice to say, nothing went right, and while I planned to be done by now, I have succeeded in putting in the new floor. The painting can be done over the week after work, and the shower stall is just going to have to wait for a while, I'm pooped!

But enough about that, you're here for the car. I did finally get it up on jacks and should have at least most of the fluids out of it this weekend. I also did some vacuuming and cleaning on the inside of the car. It still needs a good shampoo and another wash, but it's starting to come along!

Sadly, as you can see at the end of the video, there is, yet another, complication. I'm not sure how I'm going to tackle that yet. Maybe I'll post about it on diyelectriccar.com and see if anyone has dealt with tracking down a leak like that before. Leave comments if you have!

Today, we fight!

Today we're tackling the rust problems on the car. There's still some more work to do, but overal, it came out pretty well. The video, which I thought would be short, turned out to be the longest yet! I had to break it up into 3 parts. They'll be video responsed together as usual.

Here's the first one:



The manual did come in, but I did not get time to work on it. Today I'm tackling the bathroom, so I'm not sure I'll be able to get to working on the EV again until later in the week, when the hard bits of the bathroom are done. I'll update when I can, but I suspect it will be Wednesday at earliest.

Going to the car wash!

Well, I didn't get as much done today as I wanted, but it was a start. I spent about two hours washing the car today. It still doesn't shine like a diamond, but at least it's clean enough to be crawling around. I still need to vacuum and shampoo the inside before I start driving off, but that's a ways off yet anyway.

Let's start with the video and go from there!



You can see some of the grime, but the video camera is not exactly super crisp. Here are some stills I took:

Before:



After:



You saw the hood in the video as before. Here's after:



And one last shot, while I was cleaning the roof, I took a shot while I had cleaned one side and not the other:



Yuck!

So what's on the agenda now that it's basically clean?

1) Get the tarp up (tomorrow)
2) Get it on stands (tomrrow)
3) Get the tires off and get them inflated (this week)
4) Get the various fluids out and disposed of (this week)
5) Start removing bits! (Hopefully, this weekend).

In particular for step 5, I need to get the clutch plate out so I can get it to EV America for the adapter, along with some other parts.

All the tools and work needed to tow the car with U-Haul set me back on the budget quite a bit, but next week I'll get the second payment on my car, so that'll perk things up. I ended up having to pay to have the hitch receive installed because the leaf springs had to be supported to do it. Then they had to wire the trailer lights, and I bought the wrong sized ball hitch the first time. While none of it was very expensive, the whole thing ended up being about $420! Plus, to really take the cake, I backed into the fence like an idiot and cracked one of the tail light covers on the van. No real harm done, but it'll probably take another $80 to get that fixed. I'm looking for ways to cust costs where I can but there's not a whole lot to be done. I think I may come in just a hair over budget, unless I can get a deal on the batteries. It won't kill me to go over, but I'm trying to keep it as low as possible and still have a vehicle that meets my specs.

First video is up!

Well, it's not much, but you can at least see who I am and hear me talk about the state of things right now. This shows my old Honda and why I'm looking for a new ride.

You can see the video here:



Or go to the link directly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTDK8xVP1w4

Future updates will be video responses to make it easier, or you can subscribe to my channel and really make my day!

Now I did forget to mention during the video why the Honda wouldn't be a good conversion project even if it was new. I'll cover that in the next installment, but there are a couple of reasons.

1) It's an automatic. Remember in my donor car specs that I was only looking at manual transmissions. There are several reasons for this.

a) Converting an automatic requires additional work and expense. My general laziness will become apparent in no time, so I might as well introduce it here. To make an automatic transmission work requires a more complicated setup, as the automatic transmission is under constant movement from the engine idling. In an electric vehicle, the motor does not idle, however. This means you have to either get an additional motor, or every time you stop you have to put it in nuetral and continue to give it pressure on the throttle, wasting a lot of energy. It also adds significant weight, having the fluid there, the heavier gear box, an additional motor if you choose that route, etc.

b) It's significantly less efficient. Part of that is because of the weight, but also, the more complicated automatic gearbox introduces increased resistance. That is why manual transmissions are given better gas mileage on dealer stickers. On a sticker for a gasoline car, it's only a few MPG, not that big a deal, but in an EV where range is already a limited resource, cutting into it further should be avoided where possible.

2) The car is too heavy. Now I'm sure you've seen people create heavier electric vehicles; the S-10 pickup conversion is very popular right now, so let me qualify that a bit. The gross restricted vehicle weight is not high enough for it's weight. The curb weight (what the vehicle weights with a full tank when it's devoid of passengers and cargo, i.e. parked) is around 2,822 lbs. I forgot to write it down off the door, but the gross weight (the total weight it can cary, car, cargo, passengers and all) is only about 3,600 lbs. In other words, it can only cary 800 lbs. of passenger and crew. When doing a conversion, depending on how many/what type of batteries you are using, it's not unusual to add 800 lbs. of batteries. For example, some 12v batteries I looked at the other day were 82 lbs. each. For a 96 volt system I need 8, making the weight of the batteries alone 656 lbs. The motor is then about 150 lbs. The weight of the other bits, like the controller and charger, etc. come to about 50 lbs. I would esitmate, making the total weight added 856 lbs. That leaves me -56 lbs. of passenger and cargo room! While the engine and exhaust system and tank are taken out, that only makes about 200-400 lbs. weight, depending on the size of the engine. Taking an easy average, 300 lbs. leaves me with 244 lbs. of stuff. Since I was recently up to 200 (I've lost some weight since thankfully) that gives me 44 lbs. of stuff to move around.

Now this would probably be fine for my usage. But if you forget about it and break a strut or axle because you had a buddy hop in one day, you'd sure be upset!

With the Geo Storm, the GRVW is around 3,200, or about 1,000 lbs more than the curb weight. It also has a larger engine, which gives me more weight to play with. I don't think I'd want to haul my mother-and-law around in it, but you can reasonably haul two people.

In the next installment we'll pick up the car, ready the work area, and if we get ambitious, drain some fluids! I'm very excited and can't wait to pick up the car this Saturday.